Once in a while, if you’ve been raised in America, you must down a greasy hamburger. For some people, it’s once a week; for us, once a month.
Then there are french fries. We like them, and we like them fat (if they’re cooked right, a la The Faded Rose), made of sweet potatoes (a la The Root) or skinny. Let’s talk about the skinny.
The shoestring fries at Freddy’s Frozen Custard & Steakburgers are the best chain restaurant french fries — or maybe anyone’s french fries — we’ve had (especially since McDonald’s cut out the lard). You get a nice pile of them with the combo meals or you can buy them on the side. Happily, we did not happen to have the to-go menu on hand when we ordered; otherwise we would have seen that the small order is 440 calories, and the big, which comes with the combo, is 520 calories.
But let’s put talk of calories aside. You don’t go to Freddy’s looking for kale or Omega-3 fatty-acid-laden mackerel. Nutrition is not at the top of your list. You go to Freddy’s for the smashed steakburgers, their lace-like slips showing on the sides of your bun. You go to Freddy’s for the frozen custard concretes and shakes and malts and the hot fudge toppings, and the Snickers pieces and, if you are still in short pants, Gummi worms, et cetera. And the fries. Think of Freddy’s as an addition to the spectrum of candy-apple red nostalgia joints like Steak ‘n’ Shake or the In’ n’ Out Burger, with a wholesome Colwich, Kan., origin story.
Read more: Arkansas Times